Monday, 22 June 2015

May 19-20 Salalah

May 19 – at sea
The wind whipped up today so life out on deck is not so great. However, we are lucky to have our large balcony to relax on and this is where we are often found on sea days. We had our get together with other cruisers from the forum we use for cruising followed by the Safe Haven drill. As we are sailing into pirate infested waters we are guided on what the routine is for the next few days while at sea as well as what to do in the event of a real emergency involving possible pirate attack! Just enhancing the cruise experience!
We also had our group lunch and tonight is formal night with the Captain's reception beforehand, so it's a busy day.
We have a rather nice spread provided by the ship for our get together
May 20 – Salalah, Oman
Salalah is located in the southern-most region of Oman, Dhofar. The region is famous for its frankincense trees and produces the best frankincense in the world. It is also a region which experiences monsoon, unlike the other regions in the country. As a result, the weather is already starting to become humid. The monsoon comes in June and lasts for 3 months creating a beautiful green oasis. However, at this time everything is still dry and dead looking.
Our guide was waiting for us on the dock – not as much security here as in Muscat. We headed out of the port towards the city which was about 15 km away. We stopped for some water and then headed for the sultan's palace. Not as elaborate as his residence in Muscat, but impressive nonetheless.
We passed other important ministerial buildings then stopped at a beautiful beach area just out of the main part of the city. The sand was white, the sea was turquoise and we were surprised this area has not developed quicker with its tourism. There is a lot to offer. The industry is on the move, however, with many high end hotel chains already established and many more to come.
Our first main stop was at the castle/fort museum at Taqa. This was quite small, but well put together and gave us an insight into how the rulers used to live. Driving further up the coast we came across a local herding his camels – with a 4WD! A herd of about 100 camels. All along the road there were camels just wandering as well as goats. The camels are wild but the goats are domesticated and let loose in the morning to wander. At one point along the road, we were following a truck with a couple of small camels in the back! Camels are very much a way of life and are used for milk and meat, not so much for transport – 4WD are faster and more comfortable!
We made a side trip to the Wadi Derbat. This would be an amazing place to see during the monsoon as the cliff over which the water flows was huge. We were impressed with the road signs telling motorists to stop if the water had reached red! Need similar directions in Australia!
We drove right through the wadi up to the natural spring where there were camels, cows, donkeys and goats grazing. There were lots of signs warning people to not swim during the flood and one even mentioning that there were some rather nasty snails in the water which can harm you! This did not seem to apply to the wildlife as there was a camel taking a dip. There were also some little paddle boats moored at the shore, so this seemed rather contradictory.
After the wadi we visited the UNESCO World Heritage site of Sumhurum (or Khor Rori). This is the eastern most outpost of the Hadramawat Kingdom on the ancient incense route (dating around 3rd century) between the Mediterranean Sea, Persian Gulf and India. The city was a major trading post for frankincense and is also believed to be the palace of the famous Queen of Sheba, though this has never been proved. Folklore is a lovely thing.
We continued our journey along the coast to Mirbat - “the old city of Arabian horses and the slave trade”. Dating back to the 14th century the old city is mostly in ruins, but the castle is still in good condition and houses a museum. The fishing port is still in use and we took a look in the market and were welcomed by the fishermen there.

All in all a very interesting and enjoyable day. We have been very impressed with Oman. Perhaps we will be back one day- so much in this world to see and do and some surprises.
The Sultan's palace

Not as elaborate as his palace in Muscat


Our fellow traveller, Linda


Beautiful endless stretches of white sand
Beautiful beach and coconut palm - what more could you wish for


Camel herding by 4WD

New recreation areas are being developed

Goats roam free during the day. They return home at night

This unassuming cemetary is the final resting place of the Sultan's mother

This ancient castle is now a very interesting museum

The Guard Room



The nursery complete with rocker

Depiction of how the rocker was used by pulling a string

The Chinese influence along the trade routes is evident in these bowls

View from the roof

And looking down into the courtyard
Out guide for the day
The well in the courtyard
The famous frankincense tree. This one is ancient. Much like the Olive tree they grow for centuries


From a viewpoint up the coast beaches stretch into the distance. This is where waters from the wadi flow into the sea during monsoon

A rugged coastline


During monsoon this grey cliff becomes a massive waterfall

At the top of the wadi, looking across to the palm trees you can see on top of the cliff in the previous photo

Camels simply roam free everywhere


This sign is primarily to prevent people swimming during the flood
With this sign as well, not likely many people swim here
This map shows the sea trade routes
View from the sea side of the site - a very good vantage point
This sign shows clearly how the city may have looked centuries ago


A flamingo colony at Sumhurum




Ancient script carved into the walls



This mausoleum is dedicated to the preacher who lived in the ancient town of Mirbat

He did so much good for the town he was buried in this special place

Guns used to protect the town of Mirbat

Migrating birds

The fish market

They were very happy for us to come in and take a look

Fishing boats. The large ones for weekly trips and smaller ones for day trips

These boats become the fisherman's home while out at sea

When the monsoon comes you heed these signs

A warning sign not seen in many countries - look closely

A fishing vessel on its way out of the harbour

And so it's farewell to Oman



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