May
19 – at sea
The
wind whipped up today so life out on deck is not so great. However, we are
lucky to have our large balcony to relax on and this is where we are often
found on sea days. We had our get together with other cruisers from the forum
we use for cruising followed by the Safe Haven drill. As we are sailing into
pirate infested waters we are guided on what the routine is for the next few
days while at sea as well as what to do in the event of a real emergency
involving possible pirate attack! Just enhancing the cruise experience!
We
also had our group lunch and tonight is formal night with the Captain's
reception beforehand, so it's a busy day.
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| We have a rather nice spread provided by the ship for our get together |
May
20 – Salalah, Oman
Salalah
is located in the southern-most region of Oman, Dhofar. The region is famous
for its frankincense trees and produces the best frankincense in the world. It
is also a region which experiences monsoon, unlike the other regions in the
country. As a result, the weather is already starting to become humid. The
monsoon comes in June and lasts for 3 months creating a beautiful green oasis.
However, at this time everything is still dry and dead looking.
Our
guide was waiting for us on the dock – not as much security here as in Muscat.
We headed out of the port towards the city which was about 15 km away. We
stopped for some water and then headed for the sultan's palace. Not as
elaborate as his residence in Muscat, but impressive nonetheless.
We
passed other important ministerial buildings then stopped at a beautiful beach
area just out of the main part of the city. The sand was white, the sea was
turquoise and we were surprised this area has not developed quicker with its
tourism. There is a lot to offer. The industry is on the move, however, with
many high end hotel chains already established and many more to come.
Our
first main stop was at the castle/fort museum at Taqa. This was quite small,
but well put together and gave us an insight into how the rulers used to live.
Driving further up the coast we came across a local herding his camels – with a
4WD! A herd of about 100 camels. All along the road there were camels just wandering
as well as goats. The camels are wild but the goats are domesticated and let
loose in the morning to wander. At one point along the road, we were following
a truck with a couple of small camels in the back! Camels are very much a way
of life and are used for milk and meat, not so much for transport – 4WD are
faster and more comfortable!
We
made a side trip to the Wadi Derbat. This would be an amazing place to see
during the monsoon as the cliff over which the water flows was huge. We were
impressed with the road signs telling motorists to stop if the water had
reached red! Need similar directions in Australia!
We
drove right through the wadi up to the natural spring where there were camels,
cows, donkeys and goats grazing. There were lots of signs warning people to not
swim during the flood and one even mentioning that there were some rather nasty
snails in the water which can harm you! This did not seem to apply to the
wildlife as there was a camel taking a dip. There were also some little paddle
boats moored at the shore, so this seemed rather contradictory.
After
the wadi we visited the UNESCO World Heritage site of Sumhurum (or Khor Rori).
This is the eastern most outpost of the Hadramawat Kingdom on the ancient
incense route (dating around 3rd century) between the Mediterranean
Sea, Persian Gulf and India. The city was a major trading post for frankincense
and is also believed to be the palace of the famous Queen of Sheba, though this
has never been proved. Folklore is a lovely thing.
We
continued our journey along the coast to Mirbat - “the old city of Arabian
horses and the slave trade”. Dating back to the 14th century the old
city is mostly in ruins, but the castle is still in good condition and houses a
museum. The fishing port is still in use and we took a look in the market and
were welcomed by the fishermen there.
All
in all a very interesting and enjoyable day. We have been very impressed with
Oman. Perhaps we will be back one day- so much in this world to see and do and
some surprises.
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| The Sultan's palace |
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| Not as elaborate as his palace in Muscat |
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| Our fellow traveller, Linda |
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| Beautiful endless stretches of white sand |
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| Beautiful beach and coconut palm - what more could you wish for |
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| Camel herding by 4WD |
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| New recreation areas are being developed |
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| Goats roam free during the day. They return home at night |
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| This unassuming cemetary is the final resting place of the Sultan's mother |
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| This ancient castle is now a very interesting museum |
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| The Guard Room |
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| The nursery complete with rocker |
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| Depiction of how the rocker was used by pulling a string |
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| The Chinese influence along the trade routes is evident in these bowls |
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| View from the roof |
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| And looking down into the courtyard |
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| Out guide for the day |
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| The well in the courtyard |
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| The famous frankincense tree. This one is ancient. Much like the Olive tree they grow for centuries |
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| From a viewpoint up the coast beaches stretch into the distance. This is where waters from the wadi flow into the sea during monsoon |
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| A rugged coastline |
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| During monsoon this grey cliff becomes a massive waterfall |
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| At the top of the wadi, looking across to the palm trees you can see on top of the cliff in the previous photo |
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| Camels simply roam free everywhere |
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| This sign is primarily to prevent people swimming during the flood |
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| With this sign as well, not likely many people swim here |
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| This map shows the sea trade routes |
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| View from the sea side of the site - a very good vantage point |
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| This sign shows clearly how the city may have looked centuries ago |
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| A flamingo colony at Sumhurum |
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| Ancient script carved into the walls |
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| This mausoleum is dedicated to the preacher who lived in the ancient town of Mirbat |
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| He did so much good for the town he was buried in this special place |
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| Guns used to protect the town of Mirbat |
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| Migrating birds |
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| The fish market |
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| They were very happy for us to come in and take a look |
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| Fishing boats. The large ones for weekly trips and smaller ones for day trips |
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| These boats become the fisherman's home while out at sea |
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| When the monsoon comes you heed these signs |
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| A warning sign not seen in many countries - look closely |
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| A fishing vessel on its way out of the harbour |
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| And so it's farewell to Oman |
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